It was the summer of 2013. I was in Iceland. I had a bus passport and a little yellow one-man tent and I was circling the Highlands, Iceland’s inhospitable Interior. I’d already lost a day by not reading the bus timetable correctly, although a day accidentally spent at Landmannalaugar is certainly not wasted. And so… More I swam in a volcano, got rescued by Odin and walked into Mordor