My idea of wellness is hot water, saunas, steam baths and lazy days. You won’t find anything about food or medicine around here but plenty of spas.
If you’re writing a book about hot baths, thermal water, steam rooms and bathing culture, sooner or later you’re going to find yourself in eastern Belgium in Spa, the town with natural thermal mineral water that gave its name to many towns with natural hot water and all places where you go to get properly … More A spa day at Spa, the spa that named all spas
“Are you going to the spa in Bucharest sometime?” It was just a comment on someone else’s Instagram, left over a year ago, on a post I shouldn’t even have been stalking but it set it all into motion. From the moment Therme București shoved its way into my consciousness, the biggest spa in Europe, … More Is the biggest spa in Europe overrated? My day at Therme București
Imagine the shock I got on Monday night, lounging in the bath after walking a mile uphill from Rangers to be greeted on Instagram by an announcement from an unknown Earth Lagoon in Iceland. A new lagoon? How did I not know it was coming? The mystery was quickly solved: after 21 years in business, … More Mývatn Nature Baths becomes Earth Lagoon and other changes in Iceland’s lagoons
That was the question my boss asked as I signed off the day before I headed to London. “I want you to do me a favour. Tell me where you swim and tell me which is the best pool”. I already knew that was far too big a question to be answered with a single … More What was the best place I swam in Iceland?
Húsafell’s Canyon Baths are a little bit mysterious. You don’t get to just turn up at the door – indeed, there is no door – but instead you meet at the activity centre in Húsafell where a guide drives you to the edge of the canyon and you have to walk down into it. It’s … More Everything you ever wanted to know about Iceland’s Canyon Baths
The last of the four spas I visited on my Great German Spa Towns trip and let’s get the spoiler out of the way early – it was probably my favourite. Bad Ems is a tiny place that doesn’t instinctively feel like the place to put an interesting spa with a unique feature but it … More I tried Emser Therme’s naked riverside sauna
Next on the Great German Spa Towns adventure is KissSalis, in Bad Kissingen. So far I’ve been to Baden-Baden’s Caracalla Therme, which sits on the spa/waterpark borderline, and Friedrichsbad, which is as close to Roman as you’re going to find in 2025. And now, after a bus, three trains and a stroll, I made it … More KissSalis Therme: the one with the mushrooms
When I went to Baden-Baden, I was expecting the famous spa town to be a bit like Budapest, in that it would have a different spa on every street corner and I’d need to spend at least three or four days to work through a good selection, so I was quite disappointed to find there … More A swimwear day at Friedrichsbad, Baden-Baden
It’s time to start the German Spa Town adventure posts! I’m going to do the spas themselves first and then the journey and then the towns and so first up is Baden-Baden’s Caracalla Therme. Caracalla Therme opened in 1985 although you’d think it’s under a decade old – it doesn’t look like it’s about to … More An evening at Caracalla Therme
In my last post, in which I visited Bath Thermae Spa, I called it “bathing like a Roman”, on the grounds that the modern spa uses the same source as the 2000-year-old Roman bathhouse but other than that, there’s no similarity at all between my spa trip and Julia Ennia Caesianus’s visit to the baths. … More Bath Roman Baths: how to actually bathe like a Roman
I Am A Polar Bear 