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The problem with Amsterdam | iamapolarbear.com

The problem with Amsterdam…

January 7, 2019

I went to Amsterdam in November. From the fact that it’s taken until January to start writing about it, you might not be surprised that Amsterdam and I didn’t get on all that well. If you’re into getting drunk and stoned and sampling the delights of the Red Light District, then this city is for … More The problem with Amsterdam…

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Innsbruck Christmas market title pic

Innsbruck Christmas market

December 20, 2018

Germany does Christmas so well and Austria has pretty much all Germany’s good points. Four years ago Family Polar Bear went to the markets at Frankfurt and Mummy Bear decided quite early this year that she wanted to go to Innsbruck Christmas market. Innsbruck is a lot smaller than Frankfurt – I mean the market … More Innsbruck Christmas market

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Golden domes of Kyiv title pic

Kyiv: the city of golden domes

December 10, 2018

To misquote my guidebook, in the beginning there was Kyiv. Before Ukraine or Russia or Moscow came into being, there was Kyiv. Kyiv’s had an interesting history, most of which I’ll gloss over. A lot of it was bombed in the late 30/early 40s and a lot of ancient monuments and churches are actually reproductions … More Kyiv: the city of golden domes

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Colourful Kyiv title pic

Photoset: the colours of Kyiv

November 26, 2018

It took me a little while to realise how colourful Kyiv is. There’s plenty of big heavy Soviet architecture, plenty of brick and granite and stone and of course, the golden domes, but there’s also a lot of colour, so here are some examples of the colours of Kyiv. Even Kyiv’s logo wants you to … More Photoset: the colours of Kyiv

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Beginner's guide to Ukraine title pic

Beginner’s Guide to Ukraine

November 22, 2018

Last week I went to Ukraine and while I tried to read & be prepared, there was still plenty that threw me. So here is my Beginner’s Guide to Ukraine. Arrival – paperwork I knew that as a UK resident, I didn’t need a visa but then I arrived at the airport and found a … More Beginner’s Guide to Ukraine

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My first school trip abroad

November 19, 2018

I went on my first school trip abroad in 1998. We live on the south coast of England – and when I say “on the south coast”, I literally mean that half of us lived closer to the ferry than to the school and when we got to France, it was the same thing with … More My first school trip abroad

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Chernobyl part 2 title pic

A day in the radiation zone: Chernobyl, part 2

November 15, 2018

If you read my Chernobyl part 1 blog, you’ll know a little about the Chernobyl Exclusion Zone and its background. If you didn’t, go & read it before you carry on with this one. Short primer: 32 years ago, its nuclear reactor exploded. Consequences were as bad as you might expect. Tourists can now go … More A day in the radiation zone: Chernobyl, part 2

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Chernobyl part 1 title pic

A day in the radiation zone: Chernobyl, part 1

November 12, 2018

This time last week I was falling asleep at work because I only got home from Ukraine in the early hours of Monday morning. And one of the things I did while I was over there was a day trip into the Chernobyl radiation zone. If the name Chernobyl doesn’t mean much to you, it … More A day in the radiation zone: Chernobyl, part 1

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Myvatn Nature Baths title pic

I love Myvatn Nature Baths

November 8, 2018

You wouldn’t believe how many times I’ve tried and failed to write this post. How hard can it be to tell you about Myvatn Nature Baths, my favourite (one of my favourite?) spa in Iceland? Myvatn Nature Baths is a geothermal spa up in the north east of Iceland. It’s a major tourist hotspot for … More I love Myvatn Nature Baths

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Fortune telling in Finland title pic

Fortune telling in Finland

October 29, 2018

Wednesday is Halloween so let’s go back to Halloween four years ago. I was in Rovaniemi, in northern Finland. I’d spent the day in town, wandering along the river because everything was blue and white and silver and frozen and yes, I nearly died of hypothermia. Although in hindsight, having survived a white-out blizzard in … More Fortune telling in Finland

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Who am I?
I'm Julie, a travel, adventure and wellness blogger. I love Iceland, I love jumping into hot water and I do love a bit of snow.

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  • Zedwell Capsule Hotel review: what's it like to sleep in a coffin?
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  • Which lagoon should I visit in Iceland?
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  • How to use a swimming pool in Iceland
Possibly the most ridiculous thing I’ve ever done in Iceland - dressed up as a Viking for a photoshoot! (Possibly more ridiculous that I nitpicked on the bow; Vikings don’t use recurves but the longbow was far too heavy for me). Forty minutes draped in capes and beads and runes and fur and waving an assortment of weapons around while a man with a camera attempted to bring out my inner Viking. I think Julía Skullsplitter did better than I would ever have expected - what do you think? Sunday in Scarborough was spent climbing a hill to visit a castle - well, the remains of one. This bit of cliff has been a stronghold since the Bronze Age and although it’s interesting to walk the walls and climb the keep, it’s also a very nice spot for sea views and sitting in the grass enjoying a picnic. The reason I was in Scarborough was for the Trefoil Guild annual meeting. The Trefoil Guild is Guiding for adults and in some ways it’s better than Girlguiding: no responsibility for children, because it’s adults only, and open to everyone, regardless of gender or Guiding experience. In practice, it’s almost entirely female, heavily leans towards retired leaders and is having a membership crisis because the average age is somewhere in the 60s or 70s and new members aren’t joining at quite the pace that older members are leaving. Having been a member for ten years now, I don’t stand out among them quite as much as I did when I was a mere child of 30. I really liked Scarborough! It’s got a spectacular beach with cliffs at all ends, it’s got the oldest cliff lift in the country, I had an ice cream, I walked in the shallows until I had my feet scratched to bits by sand and salt under my sandal straps and the water was an incredible colour. Not pictured: a cheese toastie from a beach kiosk, four sticks of traditional Scarborough rock and 27km walked mostly back & forth across the beach in under 48 hours. I’ve done a few train adventures in my time but this was one I was… dubious about. Southampton to Scarborough by CrossCountry (well, Southampton to York, then a quick hop by TransPennine Express to Scarborough), so basically the entire length of England. So much potential for it to all go wrong, to the point that I’d taken to saying I was “hopefully” going to Scarborough this weekend. The UK rail network doesn’t have much of a reputation for reliability and CrossCountry tends to send shorter trains than the route requires, so half the passengers end up standing, packed in shoulder to shoulder. After a slightly intimidating UK train adventure this weekend, I’m off to Iceland for some geothermal and volcanic adventures next week, so I thought I’d go back to this volcano where I inadvertently became part of a Channel 4 documentary three years ago (see link in bio and skip to 32:27!) I often casually mention the boathouse and boat club, so let’s talk about it! I have a niece. She's three months old and I have very little interest in or enthusiasm for the baby stage - there was no, "Oh, I've suddenly realised I need one of these!" moments when I first met her, just a "yeah, I was right, I'm not a baby person". I just don't get the appeal of babies. Maybe there's a gene I'm lacking. This week has been #volunteersweek Week and as a long-term Girlguiding volunteer (adult leader for nearly 19 years but I started as Brownie helper when I was 13), I’m seeing a lot of “Thank you for volunteering!” and “we love our volunteers!” posts from every level and I have mixed feelings about it.

About Julie

I'm a blogger, adventurer, lover of hot water, amateur paddler and polar bear who wilts in hot weather. Time (by day, I'm a researcher) and funds keep me within Europe and I make regular trips up to the north, especially to Iceland. I like the occasional adventure across Europe by train and I'm starting to make use of my weekends for 48-hour adventures. This isn't my only creative outlet - I've written two travelogues (one on a winter adventure across the Arctic Circle and one on exploring volcanoes during a warm summer road trip around Iceland) plus a little book of Icelandic pools and I have a fourth book in progress right now.

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