I’m excited about today’s post because I’m going to be ranking geothermal spas in Iceland and deciding which is the best. That’s not based on my own thoughts and feelings, it’s based on number of points scored in each category and it means I have no idea which is going to win!
The contenders are the six I’ve visited so far. In alphabetical order, that’s:
And my categories are:
- Changing facilities
- Private showers
- Shampoo & conditioner provided
- Locker tokens provided
- General vibe – sorry, this one is vague but it’s marked out of three
- Facilities
- Somewhere to swim
- Hotpots
- Sauna
- Steam room
- Waterfall
- Anything extra
- Experience
- In- water drinks
- Fun extras
- Towel provided
- Robe provided
- Good view (out of three)
- General vibe, again out of three
- Price (marks out of five)
So that’s 27 points possible and I’m very excited to see how they do.
Blue Lagoon
Handily first alphabetically is the daddy of them all, the original, the tourist trap, the best. But is it?
Changing facilities
- Yes to private showers – they’re frosted glass cubicles and they don’t lock but they are private
- Yes to shampoo and conditioner provided
- Yes to locker tokens – well, they give you a locker key when you go in but the point of this category is that you don’t need the right coin in your pocket. The keys are multipurpose – they open your locker, you use them to pay for drinks and they’re your key to get in and out of the complex in the first place
- General vibe – I’m going to give this a two out of three. Everything’s there, including one cubicle per changing area, it’s all good but there’s something kind of clinical about it and it gets very busy.
- Score: 5/6
Facilities
- Yes to somewhere to swim – the lagoon isn’t deep enough or long enough for lengths practice but there’s room to swim, yes.
- No to hotpots.
- Yes to sauna, steam room and a waterfall.
- Any extras – yes, you get a face mask included in the price of admission and you can buy more at the in-water bar. I believe they provide armbands/water wings for small children.
- Score: 5/6
Experience
- Yes to in-water drinks, using the power of your locker bracelet. Three alcohol drinks per bracelet, as many soft drinks as you like, in reusable plastic cups. You can also buy waterproof phone cases and face masks.
- Fun extras – you know, I’m not sure there is anything extra.
- Towel provided – yes! You used to have to rent them from the front desk but now when you’re ready to leave, you go and collect a towel from the booth by the outside door, which means you don’t have to worry about exactly where you left yours hanging and which one is yours.
- Robe provided – not for free but you can rent them if you want.
- Good view – I’m going to give this a 2/3 because it does have a view but it’s of a black lava field and a space-age power station. I personally like it but at the same time, if I was building a spa, I wouldn’t want a power station as my view.
- Vibe: 3/3. Come on, it’s touristy but you can’t beat going to the Blue Lagoon!
- Score: 8/10
Price
This is where the Blue Lagoon falls down. It’s the most expensive of the lot. I’m comparing the most basic price with nothing extra included and the Blue Lagoon today is 10,990kr if you go in first thing in the morning, the absolute cheapest ticket. That’s £65.99 / $75.05.
Score 1/5
Fontana
You know, I have high hopes for this one. A modern facility with a turf roof in the middle of the Golden Circle, not as visited as it perhaps should be – which I love!
Changing facilities
- I believe there’s a curtain at the end which you can pull across to make a private shower. I’m not 100% certain and for obvious reasons, I don’t have any photos to check. I’ll give them the benefit of the doubt and half a point.
- Yes to shampoo and conditioner – although frankly, the conditioner is the worst thing I’ve ever put on my hair.
- Yes to locker tokens – that is, you just walk in, pick a locker and take the key. You don’t need a token.
- General vibe: I like it. There’s no private cubicles but I like the way it feels so I’m going to give it two and a half.
- Score: 5/6
Facilities
- Yes to somewhere to swim – one of the pools is a miniature swimming pool and you can also go in the lake if you fancy instant hypothermia
- Yes to hotpots – Viska is a raised hotpot and the black lava pool is an overgrown hotpot
- Yes to sauna – I don’t think I’ve ever been in it but it’s there
- Yes to steam room and this one has the bonus of being natural. It’s placed straight over a vent in the Earth so the steam is absolutely fresh and stinks to high heaven
- Yes to waterfall. It’s more of a giant tap than one styled to look like a real waterfall but it’s there
- This one means are there any other facilities. We’ve got the hotpots, the pool and the others are long relaxing pools. I think the lake counts as something extra – it’s definitely a draw.
- Score: 6/6
Experience
- In-water drinks – I’m not sure. I think there’s a window at the end of the long shallow pool where you can buy drinks so I’m going to give it half a point for my own uncertainty.
- Fun extras? There are bath toys for kids and you can borrow water shoes to go into the lake.
- Towel provided – not as standard. You can rent one if you need to.
- Robes provided – yes, I’m being inconsistent because yes, you can hire one. You get a point for having robes available at all but not for having towels for hire. You only get the towel point if it’s free. Yes to robe, no to towels.
- Good view – oh, three out of three. Lake, mountains, steam vents, what more do you want?
- Vibe – I’m going to give it two out of three. I like it but a lot of the water is shallow and the tiled look is more clinical and municipal than perhaps people are looking for in a spa.
- Score: 7.5/10
Price
Fontana doesn’t have price changes depending on time of day or package. It’s just one price. Today that’s 4,500kr, or £27.02 / $30.73. That’s actually the second cheapest of the lot so I’m going to give this:
Score: 4/5
Krauma
This is the newest to me. It’s in the West and it’s powered by a giant hot spring.
Changing facilities
- I’m not sure I remember any private showers. I’m pretty sure they don’t have doors on them so until and unless anyone in the comments points them out, I’m going to say no to private showers
- Shampoo and conditioner provided – yes, but not in the cubicles, you have to venture out to get it from the wall opposite which is odd and I’m going to take half a point off for it
- Locker tokens provided – don’t need them. I don’t remember what kind of bracelet I had but I also don’t remember rooting around in my purse for a non-existent coin.
- General vibe: Half a point off again for no private changing cubicles. In Iceland, that’s a concept that just doesn’t exist but I know tourists aren’t necessarily comfortable with it so it’s a cultural thing, which is why it feels unfair to knock a whole point off. Other than that, I quite like it, it looks and feels nice and spa. 2.5/3
- Score: 4/6
Facilities
- There’s nowhere to swim. Krauma is a cluster of hotpots in various shapes, sizes and temperatures
- Absolutely yes to hotpots. Something for everyone
- Yes to sauna – they call it an infrared cell but it’s a sauna
- Yes to steam bath
- No to waterfall
- There’s a relaxing room with a log fire. I think that counts as an extra facility
- Score: 4/6
Experience
- In-water drinks – yes, but you have to flag a waiter down, give your name and remember (/be honest enough) to pay afterwards. It’s not the system I’d use
- Fun extras – no, I don’t think so.
- Towel provided – only if you pay for it, so no point
- Robes available – yes, for hire
- Good view: well… I adore that the giant hot spring is placed front and centre and the mountains are great. The trouble is, a lot of the view is the path leading up so you’re overlooked while you’re in the water and next to the hot spring is a gravel car park. The spring is very good and makes up for some of the others but I think this is a 1.5/3.
- General vibe: two out of three. I like it, I’ll go back if I’m in the area but I’m not making a special journey for it.
- Score: 5.5/10
Price
Krauma also has just one entrance fee which is 5,400 kr (£32.42 / $36.88). It comes in fourth place out of six and I’m going to award it:
Score: 3/5
Myvatn Nature Baths
Now, a word of warning: I haven’t been to Myvatn since 2016. My thoughts are a bit out of date but I’m going to run with it and assume there have been no major changes since then.
Changing facilities
- I think there was a curtained-off shower when I was last there so I’m going to give it a point
- Honestly, I don’t remember if there was shampoo and conditioner. I’m going to say that there was because I can’t imagine there not being any at a place like this. Website says yes, the same ones that Fontana has, so avoid the conditioner.
- Locker tokens provided: again, no idea but the pictures on the website look like you just pick a locker and go off with its key. It also mentions being given a token at reception so I’m going to give them the benefit of the doubt that at the very least, you don’t need to search your change.
- General vibe: 1/3 if it hasn’t changed. The changing rooms felt very council-run swimming pool and it’s a long scurry down the path to the hot water.
- Score: 4/6
Facilities
- Somewhere to swim – I’m on firmer ground here. Yes! This is a lagoon.
- Hotpots – yes, there’s a big trough-shaped hotpot by the steps/ramp.
- Sauna – I neither remember a sauna nor can I see one on the website
- Steam room – yes!
- Waterfall – yes!
- Anything extra – no, I don’t think so
- Score: 4/6
Experience
- In-water drinks – yes. You can either pre-pay for a drinks bracelet before you go in or use your phone/card/watch at the bar
- Fun extras – no, I don’t think there’s anything extra
- Towel provided – only if you pay for it
- Robe provided – No, I don’t think so, there’s no mention of it on the website
- Good view? Absolutely. Three out of three. A live volcano behind you and an entire landscape including a volcanic lake and mountains in front.
- General vibe: I adore the Nature Baths. I’ve already criticised the changing facilities but I don’t think there’s anything to criticise about the overall experience. Three out of three.
- Score: 7/10
Price
Yet another one-price only. 5,900kr / £35.43 / $40.29, third most expensive out of the six.
Score: 3/5
Secret Lagoon
Another Golden Circle staple and definitely not a secret, the Secret Lagoon was more of a local pool for local people before the landowner realised how much they could be making from tourists.
Changing facilities
- Private showers – I thought there’s a curtain but the website says “Along with Icelandic customs those are public showers with open space (no cabins). There is no shame, we are all the same!”.
- Shampoo and conditioner provided: I’m not sure. Website says it provides soap for washing body/hair and obviously, I have no photos from the showers to check. I’m going to say no for now.
- Locker tokens provided – yes, no need, just find an empty locker and take the token
- General vibe: one out of three. It’s a bit basic but nothing I can really fault. The usual no private cubicle but that’s pretty standard, especially in a place that’s apparently gone out of its way to not. It’s just… yeah, it’s pretty basic. There’s no spa vibes.
- Score: 2/6
Facilities
- Somewhere to swim – yes! It’s a lagoon! It’s not very big or very deep but you can definitely swim
- Hotpots – no
- Sauna – no
- Steam room – no
- Waterfall – no
- Anything extra – no, it’s literally just a lagoon.
- Score: 1/6
Experience
- In-water drinks. Half a point because you can take your wallet and go into reception via the poolside door and buy a drink to take in. It’s not in-water exactly.
- Fun extras – there’s a large box of pool noodles/”woggles” (a woggle is a thing you hold a neckerchief together with, not a foam tube for playing in the pool). There are also fenced-off geysers around the edge so you can really feel how natural this pool is.
- Towel provided – only if you pay for it
- Robe provided – no
- Good view: 1.5/3 – there’s no view as such, but there are the geysers, trees and hills and greenhouses. I can’t quite bring myself to mark it as 1/3, which might suggest brick walls but it’s certainly not somewhere you’re going to go for the scenery
- Vibe: 2/3. It’s pretty basic but it’s pleasant. If I wanted a pool on the Golden Circle, I’d probably go for Fontana
- Score: 5/10
Price
The Secret Lagoon comes in the cheapest of the lot at just 3,000kr (£18.01 / $20.49). You don’t get a lot for your money but you’re also not paying a whole lot.
Score: 4/5
Sky Lagoon
Iceland’s newest spa, I think, just a short drive out of Reykjavik (or a full hour if you go by public bus – bonus point for being accessible by public transport, though). This will be interesting…
Changing facilities:
- Private showers – yes, every shower cubicle has a door. It’s one that shows your feet and head but it hides the important bits
- Shampoo and conditioner provided – yes, and in your cubicle
- Locker tokens provided – you get an electronic key which locks the locker of your choice. There’s also a scanner to remind you of your locker number
- General vibe: 2/3 because although it’s pristine and very spa, it’s also got low mood lighting. I find it too dark and I find the eye-level green lights to tell you the locker is open absolutely blinding – I literally can’t see what’s in my locker because of it. That’s partly me being overly light-sensitive though. No private changing rooms but you can upgrade to the Sky Package to get one for a price.
- Score: 5/6
Facilities
- Somewhere to swim. Again, it’s a lagoon so yes
- Hotpots – you know what? There aren’t!
- Sauna – yes, but it’s part of the Ritual so it costs extra. Half a point because it is there.
- Steam room – same, half a point
- Waterfall – yep!
- Anything extra – half a point again because there’s a mist room and a body scrub in the Ritual but it costs extra.
- Score: 3.5/6
Experience
- In-water drinks – yep, from your locker bracelet
- Fun extras – no, I don’t think so
- Towel provided – yes! Help yourself from the shelves as you leave the water.
- Robe provided – no. You don’t need it. The only time you’re going to be out of the water is when you’re climbing up the steps and returning to the showers five metres away.
- Good view: I can’t not give this three out of three. It’s an infinity pool with views across the bay and it’s facing west so you get great sunsets.
- General vibe: two and a half out of three. It’s great, no two ways about it – except that I object to the sauna and steam room being paid extras when even the local pool in the smallest village would have those included.
- Score: 7.5/10
Price
The Sky Lagoon is expensive. I’ve gone for the Pure Lite package and first thing in the morning. Pure Lite doesn’t include the Ritual, you have to upgrade to Pure for that. There’s also a Sky Package which includes the Ritual and private changing rooms but I said right back at the beginning that I’m going for the most basic cheapest price available and today that’s 6,990kr (£41.97 / $47.73). That’s second most expensive but still only two-thirds of the price of the Blue Lagoon. Given how much you’re locked out of for that basic price:
Score: 2/5
And so the scores are in! Let me present them from bottom to top:
In sixth place…
The Secret Lagoon with 12 points out of a possible 27. The Secret Lagoon is let down by its lack of facilities, really. But it’s kind of raw and natural and authentic and I absolutely think you should go there.
Blog post: The Golden Circle and the Secret Lagoon | Iceland 2022
In fifth place…
Krauma with 16.5 points. I don’t dislike Krauma but I think I’d feel warmer towards it if it felt less like they’d taken the pleasant extras from a local pool, supersized them, painted them black and slapped a premium price on them.
Blog post: Is Krauma overpriced and overrated?
In fourth place…
Myvatn Nature Baths and Sky Lagoon tied on 18 points. I like the Nature Baths and think it deserved a little better – I just adore its setting. It’s taken a lot of things that were good about the Blue Lagoon and left out a lot of the things that are bad. The Sky Lagoon is a delight but it’s a bit on the pricey side and I don’t like that they charge extra for access to the sauna and steam room – and you only get to go in once even if you pay for them!
Blog post: I love Myvatn Nature Baths
Blog post: Iceland’s newest spa: The Sky Lagoon | Iceland April 2022
In second place…
The Blue Lagoon with 19 points. Well, we knew the Blue Lagoon was going to finish high; it’s the big cheese of the geothermal spa world for a reason but its price let it down.
Blog post: The Icelandic Guidebook: The Blue Lagoon
And a clear winner…
Fontana, with a whopping 22.5 points out of 27! 23.5 if you include the bonus point for the bus. I’m very pleased about that because I’m personally very fond of Fontana but it turns out it’s got the right combination of facilities to win this contest. Being brutally honest, it’s slightly less than the sum of its parts but it’s still one of my favourites.
Blog post: The A-Z of Iceland: F for Fontana